Kalamkari – The Pictoral Pen Art Of Andhra Pradesh

The name Kalamkari originates from the Persian words – kalam (pen) and Kari (craftmanship), and Kalamkari literally means drawing with a pen. Kalamkari is the art of painting cotton fabrics with a kalam i.e. pen, a sharp-pointed pierced bamboo that regulates the flow of color on the fabric.

Kalamkari art uniquely portrays mythological characters in paintings with different colors.  The popularity of this exquisite form of paintings crossed the shores of the country during the 17th and 18th centuries. Although the art is prevalent throughout the state of Andhra Pradesh, the two major styles are Srikalahasthi in the Chittoor district and Machilipatnam Kalamkari in the Krishna district.

 The Srikalahasthi style of Kalamkari, when the “kalam” or pen is used for freehand drawing of the subject and filling in the colors, is entirely handcrafted. This style flourished around temples and their patronage and so had an almost religious identity – scrolls, temple hangings, chariot banners. The depicted deities and scenes are taken from the Hindu epics – Ramayana, Mahabharata, Purana, and the mythological classics.

The earliest and more complex form of block-printing on cloth using vegetable dyes flourished at Machilipatnam in Andhra Pradesh. This craft started in the old city of Golconda and then spread along the eastern coast up to the state of Tamil Nadu.

This craft reached its peak during British rule as there was a high demand for Kalamkari dresses and furnishing material in Europe and Southeast Asia. The motifs used were floral and animal designs. In general, the Persian influence (found mainly in Mughal architecture) on the designs is visible with ornamental birds and flowers.

With the emergence of high-quality machine looms and acceptance for printed textiles, Kalamkari art was revived from the verge of extinction. Printed Kalamkari is a new craze among the current generation, as it is a combination of both traditional and modern trends. The beautiful, elegant designs and vibrant colors make kalamkari a popular fabric used in contemporary products. We showcase a wide range of products that use kalamkari fabrics like bags, purses, jewel boxes, tableware, and furnishings.